indian spice

a lot of people have been asking me what i do all day... so i thought i'd fill you in on a day in my indian life... first, i have to actually think about what i do all day.

because the pace is so much slower here than it is in the west, there is so much more time to absorb each moment to just be. it's a foreign idea to most of us, but i'm allowing myself to sit still long enough to listen and absorb the things around me... i've actually found that i'm learning so much... about myself and the world...

i wake up super early to absorb the silence before going to practice. my practice starts at 6 now... so i'm moving around by 4:30-ish... which means i'm usually in bed by 9...

after practice, i take a two hour breakfast... come to think of it, i pretty much eat all day. i might take a nap or read a bit here and there, but if i were to sum up my day, it would be pretty much... eating.

before i left for india, i got a lot of sarcastic jokes like "well, i hope you like indian food."... to which i always replied, "duh, of course i do." it didn't really occur to me until after i landed here that i realized that i've never actually had indian food. this really isn't such a good position to be in when you have a very sensitive "that's an unfamiliar texture gag reflex"... especially since i am now immersed in a foreign country that has no cocoa puffs or 5 guys burgers.

to put it mildly, my first indian meal was a bust. when i finally found a place to eat, i perused the menu and realized with great shock that i had no idea what i was looking at. for some reason i didn't even think about this predicament before i left the states. being a planner... as you all well know me to be... i would of expected to have thought this through... maybe i would of done some research so my first meal wouldn't involve me randomly ordering something off the menu by pointing to it and grunting to the waiter... unfortunately, this is exactly what happened.

i ended up pointing to the special of the day... which i soon found out that i should never do. what i got was a bowl of mushed up corn bits mixed up with some mash or porridge of some sort... i don't actually know what it was... i just know that my gag reflex was definitely kicking in. most of you know that i don't do well with chunky or slimy or mushy... or raw or lumpy or... well you get the point.

i knew that i needed to activate my jedi-mind trick if i was ever going to get through this. praying that my probiotic system would kick in at the appropriate moment, i started with baby bites. this only worked for a short period of time. i gave up after choking down a few spoonfuls and accepted the fact that i'd probably starve to death within a couple of days.

the day after this dreadful experience, i was of course hungry again. i realized i couldn't avoid food for the next 5 months, so i decided i would look to see what everybody else was eating and then just point to that... this worked fine for a while, but it got pretty boring. i knew there had to be a better way.

then i met alice (not shown here). alice is my new british friend who has shown me how to eat in india... and now i can't stop eating. i think i am the only girl in the world that goes to india and actually gains weight. my mother is thrilled. i've actually put myself on a diet... in india... it's really the funniest thing ever. who does that?














besides for stuffing my face, my day also consists of meditation and chanting classes and a lot of wandering around. i've met a lot of cool people from all over the world... so i've been doing a lot of talking and laughing. india is good and i'm starting to blend... well, as much as a white girl from florida can.

the darjeeling hum

i've had many odd encounters with cows and monkeys, but chickens seem hard to come by. week one has passed and i finally found my chicken. unfortunately i wasn't sitting next to it on a bus, but i figured this was close enough.

as each day goes by, it gets easier and easier living in india... i don't think i'll ever really blend, but at least i'm not just wandering around looking lost anymore. i am getting pretty comfortable with the constant noise, the dusty air and the foreign food... and being stared at everywhere i go.

my yoga practice starts at 7 a.m. during the week. i wake up at 5 a.m. just so i can absorb the silence. it's not too often that india is actually quiet. i wake up slowly... i'm doing everything slowly these days... that's just how it's done here. i stretch out a bit on my bed and play a song on my ipod before my feet even touch the ground. This never fails to bring a huge smile to my face. It's nice to lay there in the dark and just smile for a few minutes.

softly, in the distance... i hear a street vendor pushing a cart through the neighborhood, calling for pineapple, watermelon and papaya... soon after, Kellashrani, the elder in the house calls upstairs to wake the family. the birds start chirping. a horn sounds. a car drives by. a gate creaks open. the old man coughs up a loogie. a bike bell chimes. a conversation in hindi is being mumbled in the next room.

slowly these sounds start to merge into one giant clash of sounds. one car has turned into a bajillion cars, all honking at the same time. they honk for everything here. when they're turning, when they're passing... when they're going to hit something... when they pass a temple... sometimes i think they honk just to honk. each horn seems to have a different sound, so it sounds like a symphony of chaos. i'm still laying in bed and notice, this is very india... it was completely silent five minutes ago.

i find that my senses are amplified here... i wonder if it's because i'm in a foreign land or if it's because i'm starting to quiet myself... or maybe i just cleaned my ears.

The Griswolds Go To India

i decided to do the tourist thing the other day to try to get my head around the fact that i'm in india and i'm not taking it by storm... so instead of trying to blend, i decided to be the blatant tourist... except i forgot my camera... Mandy's camera actually (thanks girl)... so i had to photoshop a visual reference for my fans. Hopefully, i won't forget it again or you're going to see this image a lot.

i ended up taking a rickshaw ride to the maharajah's palace (side note: a rickshaw is not a little asian man pulling white americans around on a two wheel cart, but a miniture automobile americans stuff themselves into if they don't want to walk) because my Rough Guide To India says it's the biggest tourist attraction in mysore... why go small really? if you're gonna do it, then do it...

being the only single white female in this joint, it's safe to say i got a lot of looks... actually, it was like i was in a zoo... except there was no glass. i learned that indians travel in packs for the most part, so i really looked alone... kind of like that little red fish in a see of blue fish. a lot of people goggled at me, some even asked for my picture... i felt like a famous polar bear in the desert. a group of woman were laughing at me as i walked into a temple. one of them even followed me in there, grabbed my arm and pulled me back out to the group so they could laugh some more. apparently my sunglasses were funny. i laughed with them.

the people in india seem lighter than americans. they don't carry the weight of their problems on their shoulders... and they smile easily. the children are my favorite. they are so excited and sincerely curious about me. what is your name? what is your country? and if i see them again, they run by screaming "Elisabet! Elisabet!" and laugh the whole way.

i'm slowly getting adjusted and more comfortable being in india. i started my yoga practice yesterday and it was absolutely amazing. i've never felt such a tangible energy before.

i haven't sat next to a live chicken yet (or dead)... sorry Kristen... but i did get swooped by a family of monkeys. Cows are everywhere except for my dinner plate and i haven't got the delhi belly yet... knocking on wood.

Traveling Across The Universe

so, when they say an image is worth a thousand words, i think this is what they had in mind. this is the beginning of my flight out of miami. gianormous john is already sweaty and busting a gut... this isn't good for me. before i left, i said i didn't want to get stuck (a.) next to a crying baby (b.) in the middle of two fat people (c.) next to a chatty cathy, space-invader... guess which one i got... yup, not to mention he smelled like gin and cigarettes. ug... at least he wasn't boring. after about four hours of chatting it up with my new-found friend, he gave me allowance to sleep. i think my continuous yawning and rubbing my eyes clued him in. quite the start to my incredible journey.

eight hours to london, four hours waiting in the airport, nine hours to bangalore. finally, my nerves start to set in. as we were descending, i look out the window and see nothing. no city lights, no moon. and then it hit me. i'm in india. what?!

as i get off the plane, i expect a clash of sounds... but instead i was overwhelmed by the stunning silence. it was almost surreal... filing off the plane, through customs and even to baggage claim... complete silence except for the occasional whisper and shuffling about. it's 4:35 am.

last minute before i left the states, i decided to rent a private driver instead of taking the train four hours to mysore... this was the best decision i've made so far. when i walked outside, my driver was standing there calling my name, "elisabet, elisabet!"...bouncing up and down, waving and smiling as wide as humanly possible... his energy calmed me down and i knew i was safe. what a strange feeling. it was a bit dodgy around me, but i felt protected. the ride from bangalore to mysore was absolutely crazy and i loved every minute of it. I almost died 5 times, but i still felt safe. mahesh was on it... There was an accident at one point, so he made a three point turn in the middle of a one way and started going in the opposite direction. it was perfectly normal, dodging the oncoming traffic as he went. I loved it. I even laughed out loud and told him I thought his driving was fantastic.

mahesh dropped me off at my indian family's house. i was greeted with warm smiles, short sentences and a lot of head-bobbing. i'm getting used to not talking so much. i know, amazing really.

the first day was a lot of aimlessly wandering around. it was quite intimidating and overwhelming. i soon realized that instead of trying to take mysore by storm, i'm going to take it slowly... not the european way, but the indian way. i have a lot to learn and i'm loving every minute of it.